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Not a dumb question at all! Its actually one many people can’t agree on. In my experience, and after reading several owner’s manuals for Suburban and Atwood water heaters, it’s recommended to sanitize with either bleach or vinegar. Check your water heater owner’s manual to see what it suggests.
Insect repellents like OFF Deep Woods, or anything with DEET, are effective. If there’s no wind, you can also try setting up an oscillating fan to blow on your outside sitting area to help keep them away.
If your water starts to take on a sulfur or rotten egg smell, it’s likely the anode rod, as Bill stated. I would check that first. If that still looks good then I’d sanitize the water heater.
Regular dish soap is fine. If you have mold/mildew, I’d recommend Star Brite Mold & Mildew Remover
Hey Tim, the easiest way I’ve found is as follows:
1. Mix soap and water in a bucket and put it in a garden sprayer or a trigger sprayer.
2. Spray the mixture on the underside of your awning — the part that’s not directly exposed to sunlight.
3. Roll up your awning and let it sit with the mixture for at least one hour to permeate the fabric.
4. Open your awning again and rinse it with water using a sprayer attachment on a hose.
5. Let your awning dry completely before closing it again.
This will work most of the time unless it is extremely dirty and/or has a lot of mold.
You can see the full details of each step here: https://camperfaqs.com/how-to-clean-rv-awnings
I’d start with using websites and apps like Campendium, AllStays, and FreeCampsites.net and look for boondocking spots. You’ll be able to read reviews, get directions, and other info about the spots.
You can also search for public lands like Bureau of Land Management (BLM), the Army Corps of Engineers, State Parks, and National Forests that allow boondocking in the area you want to stay.
There are many security systems available—Ring, Arlo, Eufy—that I know RVers use. Most, if not all, of those require WIFI, so that’s something to think about if you regularly stay in areas with no connection. I have a Eufy camera. It starts recording when it detects motion, and a light turns on. It connects to a base inside, so there is no subscription fee, which is a plus. Its just a camera, no alarm goes off (They do sell alarms though).
That said, oftentimes cameras, alarms, etc, won’t do much to deter a thief from a quick score. I’d recommend also getting a bolt down safe for valuables, changing the factory locks, and asking neighbors to watch your place while away. Nothing is fool-proof, but it all helps.
That really depends – a few hundred to over a thousand depending on the type and size of the RV and what you want inspected.
Use the NRVIA RV inspector finder to find a certified tech near you: https://nrvia.org/locate/
First, I’d measure your trailer to know exactly how tall it is. From the ground to the highest point on your trailer. If it’s around 11 ft you’ll be good on the highways, but there may be side streets that could be a concern.
That said, an RV GPS like RV Life will help you plan your route based on your RV’s height.
Great points by Terry. I’ve heard good and bad things about Jayco, but that’s the case with most brands. Unfortunately build quality in most RVs isn’t great. Even higher quality (and higher priced) trailers like Airstream, Grand Design, etc have their quirks and complaints from owners.
It’s not difficult, even if you’ve never done it. The installation process may vary based on the brand you’ve purchased, along with the propane setup on your RV, but it’s a pretty straightforward process.
First of all, follow the specific product’s directions closely. If it does seem beyond your skill level, just have a professional install it.
Below is a general example of how to install a typical regulator, as taken from the Camco RV Propane Regulator owner’s manual. This will give you an idea of the process:
- First, remove any existing regulators already in place.
- Perform one of the following: a travel trailer installation or an RV basement installation.
Travel Trailer Installation: Attach the new regulator to the mounting bracket. Drill new holes if necessary and secure the regulator with its included screws. Attach the Pigtail end to the regulator’s inlet. Attach the gas piping to the regulator’s outlet.
RV Basement Installation: Install the POL with the male pipe thread to the regulator’s inlet. Connect the outlet to the gas piping of your RV. Attach the regulator to the cylinder’s inlet by tightening the POL to the gas cylinder valve.
- After completing steps A or B, double-check your work and ensure the regulator is installed properly. The vent should be facing downward.
- Use the included leak detector, if applicable, to check each joint and connection for gas leaks.
Good point by @IA_Camper. It’s $37 for the Flameking regulator mentioned here https://camperfaqs.com/best-rv-propane-regulator.
I’m sure you’ll find varying opinions about this in forums, but I would recommend NOT attempting to adjust the pressure on your regulator yourself. I would leave that up to an RV service tech. They have the proper equipment and will run specific tests to ensure the safety of your propane system.
I personally haven’t in a while. Between hotspots, satellite internet, park wifi and cable, etc, I haven’t really had the need, personally. But, depending on where you camp, OTA might come in handy. Or if you wanted to pick up local stations, news, weather, and so on.
I use a Heat Storm space heater and love it. Some are wall mountable, which can save space, but I have one with feet. I even use it in my basement when I’m at home, and it keeps our entire living area down there nice and warm. Had it for 7 years now.
Whatever you choose, make sure it is UL and/or ETL-listed and has built-in safety features like tip-over shut-off, overheat protection, etc. And some can be really loud. The Heat Sorm I mentioned above is nearly silent.
Also, I only run it at half power (750 watts), and this is why.
