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Hey CJ,
A toy hauler that long will limit your options somewhat, but plenty of campgrounds can still accommodate rigs that size, especially private RV parks and campgrounds with larger pull-through sites.
When booking, look at the actual site length and, if possible, call before booking. A 45-foot trailer may fit on a 45- or 50-foot pad, but you still need room for your tow vehicle, slides, awning, and possibly the rear ramp or patio. If you want to stay hooked up overnight, you may need a much longer pull-through site.
State parks, national park campgrounds, and older campgrounds can be more challenging because many were designed when RVs were smaller. Newer private RV parks are generally easier to search because they often list individual site lengths online.
I’d also get the exact overall length and height of your setup and keep those numbers handy when making reservations. Ultimately, a quick phone call to the campground before booking can save a lot of trouble.
Yes. If you’re plugged into shore power, you can usually plug a standard mini fridge into one of the RV’s regular 120V outlets just like you would at home.
Just make sure you’re not overloading the same circuit with other high-draw appliances like the microwave, coffee maker, toaster, or space heater. The fridge will also draw a little extra power when the compressor starts.
Hey Rich, welcome, and good question.
I wouldn’t use them unless your specific trailer manufacturer’s manual says to. Most slide-outs are designed to support themselves when fully extended, and aftermarket supports can actually cause damage if the trailer settles or shifts while the support remains in place. Level and stabilize the trailer itself, then extend the slides according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Hey Melissa,
The best place to start is the NRVIA inspector directory. Enter the RV’s location, not your home address, since the inspector normally travels to the seller or dealership. The directory covers Texas and the rest of the country.
Here’s the link: https://rvhelp.com/rv-inspection
It sounds like your water heater may be in bypass mode. If the bypass valves are set for winterizing, the water heater won’t fill and you won’t get any water from the hot faucets. Check the valves on the back of the water heater and make sure they’re set to “normal” operation. Also, open a hot faucet after changing the valves to let the air escape while the tank fills.
It can happen, especially on a humid night, but it should not be a regular occurrence. Ice usually forms when there is not enough airflow across the evaporator coil.
Check and clean the air filter, make sure the ceiling vents are open, and run the fan on high instead of low during humid weather. Also avoid setting the thermostat extremely low for long periods.
If it freezes again after those checks, the evaporator coil may be dirty, the freeze sensor may be out of position, or the unit could be low on refrigerant. At that point, it would be worth having an RV technician inspect it.
Welcome Rick! And a great idea. Thanks for sharing!
Smell is likely part of it. A combined tank would put toilet waste directly below every drain in the RV, increasing the risk of sewage odors entering the living space.
Separate tanks also make the system easier to manage. The black tank can stay closed until it has enough liquid for a proper dump, while the gray tank can be emptied more often and then used to rinse the sewer hose. A combined tank is possible, and some RVs have used one, but separate tanks are generally cleaner and more practical.
Welcome to the community! Good question.
Common options include RV parks and campgrounds, truck stops, municipal wastewater facilities, some rest areas, and certain gas stations or RV service centers. Many locations charge a small fee, while others are free.
Before heading home, you can search for a nearby location with the CamperFAQs RV Dump Station Locator: https://camperfaqs.com/rv-dump-stations
Always confirm the station is open and available to the public before making the trip. 🙂
We use our outdoor RV shower for rinsing off sand, mud, lake water, etc. from our dog and ourselves before going back inside. And also for cooling down our dog if it’s hot out. I don’t see why a standalone shower tent wouldn’t work too. The only thing I’d watch is the floor if it has one. Dog claws might puncture cheaper flooring, especially if they’re moving around or trying to get out.
It’s going to depend on the location. Some do a flat price, some like my local TSC only charge for what they put in. I’d call around and see how they charge.
Welcome to the Community! Good question. Definitely pull them in, as it’s not worth the risk of (potentially costly) damage.
It’s the America the Beautiful Senior Pass from the National Park Service, available to those age 62 and older, and it provides free entry at national parks and other federal recreation sites that charge entrance fees, plus 50% off camping at many federal campgrounds, including most Corps of Engineers (COE) parks, like Modoc. There’s a lifetime and annual option available.
Welcome! Your best bet for cheaper campgrounds with hookups will be COE campsites. You can even find waterfront spots in your price range if you love a good view. Plus, if you’re 62+ and have a senior pass, you get 50% off these spots.
Modoc Campground in Augusta is a great example that fits your bill. You can reserve sites on Recreation.gov here: https://www.recreation.gov/camping/campgrounds/232645. I’d book soon if you want a waterfront spot.
Here are more COE campgrounds in Georgia for $36 or less: https://camperfaqs.com/waterfront-rv-camping-in-georgia-for-36-or-less
Yes, I’d recommend keeping one in the RV. They do come in handy at times, especially on longer runs or uneven sites. Some campgrounds also require the hose to be off the ground.
For quick dump stops or short, easy hookups, it may not matter much. But they’re cheap, light, and handy when the setup isn’t ideal.
