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Yes, I’d recommend keeping one in the RV. They do come in handy at times, especially on longer runs or uneven sites. Some campgrounds also require the hose to be off the ground.
For quick dump stops or short, easy hookups, it may not matter much. But they’re cheap, light, and handy when the setup isn’t ideal.
We keep our standup basket in the shower, and just take it out when showering. 🙂
I believe its $65 a year now
RV Life Trip Wizard and their app are a great combo for this. Garmin has an RV GPS that will take into account your RV’s height, as well.
Not at all. If the trailer is level and the site is long enough, there’s no need to unhook. Just lower the tongue jack and possibly your stabilizers to help stabilize the trailer. 🙂
Good rule of thumb: leave it on when you’re there, and turn it off when you leave the campsite. 🙂
Most RV parks that advertise “cable TV hookups” do NOT supply the coax cable. You are expected to bring your own and connect it between the campground pedestal and the cable input on your RV. How long would depend on the park. A 25–50 ft RG-6 coax cable should work for almost any scenario.
Yes, exactly what Bill said. Camco and RVguard make popular “dogbone” adapters for this. Let us know if you have any more questions.
Yes. A 12-volt RV refrigerator is designed to run while you are driving, and many RVers, myself included, do exactly that. 🙂
Take the tire off the bike so its not as long and use a bike rack.
@ia_camper is correct. If you’ve emptied the grey tank and there’s still an issue, it’s a clog.
1. Check the drain cover or screen
Many RV showers have a small strainer under the drain cover. Hair often collects right there. Try removing the cover and pulling out anything you can see.2. Use a plastic drain snake
A thin plastic drain snake works well for this. Slide it down the drain slowly and pull it back out. They are designed to grab hair and gunk without damaging the pipes.Hi Carol,
Most RV interior walls are not drywall like a house. They’re usually thin paneling with a vinyl coating, which is fairly slick. Because of that, paint won’t stick well unless the surface is prepped first.
Start by cleaning the walls really well with a degreasing cleaner. RV walls tend to collect cooking residue, dust, and fingerprints, and paint won’t bond properly if that’s still on the surface. After cleaning, lightly scuff the walls with a fine sanding sponge or around 220-grit sandpaper. You don’t need to remove the finish. The goal is just to dull the shine so primer has something to grip.
Next, apply a bonding primer designed for slick surfaces. This step makes the biggest difference in how well the paint holds up. Once the primer dries, you can paint with a good quality interior acrylic latex paint. Many RV owners go with a satin or eggshell finish since it cleans easily and hides imperfections better than flat paint.
Using thin coats and allowing the paint to cure for a few days helps it hold up better over time. RV walls flex a bit during travel, so good prep and patience during the painting process go a long way toward preventing peeling or chipping later.
No, leave your tanks closed, especially the black tank, to avoid solids from building up. Some people leave the gray tank open but close it the day before dumping so it can partially fill and flush the hose after the black tank. Even with that method, the black tank should stay closed until dumping.
Sure can!
Short answer: No, it won’t hurt anything.
The reason people say they must “match” is because lithium batteries will try to equalize voltage when connected. If one is at a very different state of charge, a surge of current can flow between them. That’s what you’re trying to avoid.
Six months of normal use won’t age a quality LiFePO4 battery enough to cause problems. When you add the second one, just fully charge both batteries first, make sure their voltages are very close, then connect them in parallel.
