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Hey Juliw, you are most likely fine. When a campsite says it has a 50/30 amp electrical hookup, that usually means it provides both a 50-amp outlet and a 30-amp outlet on the same pedestal. It’s very common.
That said, it’s a good idea to carry a 50-to-30 amp adapter, also called a “dogbone adapter”. These let you plug your 30-amp camper into a 50-amp outlet if, for some reason, the 30-amp one is damaged or unavailable.
Enjoy your trip!
I would highly recommend getting an inspection. It could potentially be the money you’ve ever spent. Campers are known for having serious quality issues.
If you plan to fill more than a full garbage bag, which you can just bring home with you and throw it away, I would suggest filling up smaller Walmart-sized bags and just throwing them away at gas stations, rest areas, etc.
Typically what that means is the seal between the two panes has failed. You’ll most likely just want to get it replaced. You could potentially fix it, but it is labor-intensive and may not last. It also voids any warranty and may reduce the window’s insulating value.
As for where, you can order replacements from RV window companies like Lippert, Peninsula Glass (RVWindows.com), or your RV manufacturer. Installation can be DIY if you’re handy or done professionally.
That usually means there’s excess moisture in the fridge and it’s condensing and freezing on the fins. A light layer of frost is normal. But if they’re heavily frosted or iced over, you’ll want to defrost them
- Turn off the fridge (or switch it to OFF on the control panel)
- Open the doors
- Let the frost melt naturally, or speed it up with a warm cloth
- Wipe up the water
- Dry out the interior: Moisture buildup usually comes from warm air getting inside, like when the fridge is opened often or loaded with warm food. Keeping it closed as much as possible helps.
- Check the door seals: Make sure the gaskets are sealing tightly. A bad seal can let in moist air.
Good reminder! Thanks
You could try an RV salvage yard. You can check out our RV Salvage Yard directory to see if there’s one near you: https://camperfaqs.com/rv-salvage-yards
It’s a long shot, but if they have one, it will likely be your cheapest option.
Hey Ben! Yes, a home sewer hookup for your camper is definitely possible.
If your house uses a septic system, one common way is to tap into an existing cleanout pipe or install a new one that connects to your septic tank. If you’re on city sewer, it works similarly; you just tie into the main sewer line.
Cost really depends on how far the hookup is from your existing system and whether you’re hiring someone. We wont be able to give you an accurate cost, so I’d suggest just getting a few estimates done.
If you’re not familiar with plumbing or local codes, it’s a good idea to call a licensed plumber anyways and see what they recommend based on your setup. They’ll be able to tell you exactly what’s needed and give you a ballpark estimate.
You may not even need to install a sewer hookup. Check out this article I wrote for a few ideas on dumping your tanks at home: https://camperfaqs.com/how-to-dump-rv-tanks-at-home
Pros: no water, no need for a dump station, no black tank cleaning/maintenance. Cons: high initial investment, manual handling of feces, learning curve, and they can take up more space than you might expect, which can be an issue if you have a small bathroom. Also, keep in mind, some campgrounds, parks may have rules against disposing of compost waste on-site, requiring you to pack it out.
