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First, check your drain cover. If it has a screw in the center, remove it. Underneath you’ll see a cross bar that often collects hair and debris. Cleaning that out usually clears things up.
If that doesn’t solve it, try a non-caustic drain cleaner. Products like Drano or Liquid-Plumr are safe options, and you can usually find them at Walmart. They’re effective without risking damage to the plumbing.
I wouldn’t use a hair snake, though, as many RVs use a Hepvo waterless trap instead of a traditional P-trap, and a snake can damage it.
Good question! It’s one that comes up a lot with RVs.
You can wax over decals, but it depends on the product and the type of decal. If yours are glossy, a non-abrasive wax or a polymer sealant usually works fine and may add a little protection against UV fading. I’d avoid anything with cleaners or abrasives in it, since those can dull the surface or lift the edges over time.
If the decals are matte, skip the wax. It could potentially leave blotches or change the finish. In that case, a vinyl protectant like 303 Aerospace or a trim detailer is the safer choice, imo.
Whatever you use, test it on a small spot first. Decals aren’t all made the same, and how they respond can vary quite a bit. And read product labels for recommended use.
I wax around them so I don’t worry about it. No need to tape them off
You can’t really check the “Freon” level yourself on RV rooftop A/Cs. They’re sealed units and don’t have service ports like a car or home system. If the refrigerant is low, it usually means there’s a leak and you’d need an RV A/C tech to install a port and recharge it.
Before assuming it’s low, make sure your filters and coils are clean, the divider between intake and output isn’t leaking air, and you’ve got good voltage.
Same as Georgia, we use Starlink and stream. No issues. I figured since thats all we use when we are at home, might as well use htem on the road. Starlink has made that pretty easy.
I’d start with warm/hot water and a mild dish soap, and use a sponge with lots of elbow grease. If that doesn’t work, try mixing baking soda with a little water and gently rubbing the paste on the stains with a soft cloth or sponge. There are plastic-safe cleaners you could try, as well. The problem is that once the sinks get scratched, it can really make it hard to get stains out. Replacing with a stainless steel or other type of material is another option.
Yes, we always use ours as well, no matter where we plug it in at. Better safe than sorry
There is a pressure leak somewhere in the system. Here’s how to find the leak and fix it: https://camperfaqs.com/rv-water-pump-keeps-running
My favorite season! Oh, and welcome back, Kara! 🙂
Make sure to regularly wipe down counters, sweep floors, and store your food securely in sealed containers. That’s the bigegst lever you can pull, imo. Also, check for tiny gaps around windows, doors, or plumbing. Sealing these entry points with silicone caulk or weather stripping is effective.
If you’re still having trouble, placing Terro ant traps around entry points or areas where you’ve noticed ants can help. They’re easy to use and really effective since ants carry the bait back to their colony, eliminating them at the source.
Hey David,
Unfortunately, it’s not a DIY fix. Once this happens, there’s really no way to fix it yourself that will last. Plus, any insulating gas like argon is long gone. Your two best options are to have a professional shop handle the repair or just replace the entire window. In many cases, replacing the window ends up being the simpler and more cost-effective route. RV window companies like Lippert or Peninsula Glass (RVWindows.com) should be able to help. Or taking it back to a dealer might be an option. Installation of the new window can be DIY if you’re handy.
I’ve always used the bumper for storage. I did replace the end caps with vented end caps. Some RVers avoid storing their sewer hose in the bumper because it can trap moisture, which leads to rust or even mold if the hose goes in wet. The bumper isn’t always a great fit for hoses with bulky fittings either. People also worry about odors if the hose wasn’t fully rinsed, and the standard bumper caps are known to fall off unless you secure them better. It’s convenient, but not without its drawbacks, which is why some folks stick with a tote or install a dedicated hose carrier instead.
Loves/Pilot app shows RV-friendly locations for their stores, plus you get a discount!
Of course, the internet is full of conflicting advice on this. You can just run it on propane while driving. It’s very common. I’ve covered this here: https://camperfaqs.com/can-i-run-my-rv-refrigerator-on-propane-while-driving
Just remember to shut off the propane before refueling, since gas station rules and safety considerations often require it.
If you’d rather avoid using propane in motion, you can chill the interior and items the night before you hit the road, pack in frozen water jugs or ice packs, and don’t open the doors until you reach your next stop.
Also, keep in mind that while driving with propane on is legal in most places, it’s prohibited in some tunnels.
